Bin 95 Grange Shiraz highlights a unique ambition and spirit of progress in the modern history of Australian wine.  The journey begins in 1950, when Max Schubert returned from a trip to Europe inspired to make, in his view, a great Australian Claret: a full-bodied and well-balanced wine capable of staying alive for a minimum of 20 years.

Back in Adelaide, Schubert set about acquiring the right material for his new project. His choice of shiraz, then also known as Hermitage in Australia, was based on availability, quality, reliability and continuity of supply, as cabernet sauvignon was not widely planted in South Australia at the time. Combining traditional Australian techniques, new ideas from Bordeaux and precision winemaking practices developed at Penfolds, Schubert made his first experimental Grange in 1951.

His methods were considered a new concept in the production of dry red wine, particularly regarding strictly controlled fermentation (over a much longer period of time than usual), maximum extraction through daily handling and the use of new oak, including partial barrel fermentation. Today, many of Australia s great wines borrow some of these techniques, especially partial barrel fermentation. 

Despite Max Schubert s imaginative winemaking skills, supported by Dr Ray Beckwith s ground-breaking science, the early journey of Penfolds Grange was not an easy one. The wine s ripe fruit, concentrated oak flavours and barrel ferment characters were greatly misunderstood, particularly by Penfolds management. By 1957, upper management had instructed Schubert to stop production.

Schubert, however, was determined to continue with his Grange project in partnership with Jeffrey Penfold-Hyland three hidden Grange vintages were secretly produced at Magill. As well as adapting the style of Grange we know today (without a budget, Schubert temporarily switched to seasoned American oak, for example) these secret Grange vintages soon became a symbol of ambition and defiance. Fortunately, the Penfolds board could be convinced to revisit the project, ordering production to restart just in time for the 1960 vintage.

The Grange style and winemaking techniques have not altered since the first experimental vintages. Grange

is memorable for its aromatic complexity, intensely rich fruit, ripe tannins of shiraz and the complementary nuances of new, fine-grained American oak.

A small amount of cabernet sauvignon, often from the Kalimna Vineyard, can sometimes be included in Grange to add aromatic complexity, freshness and vigour. Partial barrel fermentation and approximately 18 to 20 months oak maturation then weave the elements together. Further bottle age allows the wine to evolve, build more complexity and soften in texture.

After 70 vintages, it is renowned by collectors for its unique Australian identity, marvellous consistency and proven aging potential. Grange is the defining modern Australian wine, comparable to the great First Growth wines of Bordeaux.

The stories of Grange Shiraz epitomise how

imagination and gut-feel transcend

numbers. Max Schubert pushed

boundaries because he wasn t

constrained by scientific dogma and he dared to

believe in himself.   ANDREW

CAILLARD, MW

Top: Max Schubert on his research trip to Europe in 1950

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