Penfolds Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mataro is a multi-varietal regional blend sometimes including old vines planted as far back as the 1890s. These varieties have formed the backbone of the Barossa s vineyard heritage since the late 19th century and were used in both table wine and fortified wine production.

For a short while it was fashionable to call the grape variety mataro by its French name  mourvèdre. As a consequence, the popularity of Rhône-style blends during the early 1990s caused Penfolds to release the first vintages (1992 to 1997) as Old Vine Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre. After establishing the style, it was elevated to the status of Bin 138 Grenache Shiraz Mataro in recognition of its continuity and consistency across vintages. Penfolds and mataro have had a long association going back to the mid-19th century. This widely loved grape variety has always been known as mataro by growers and winemakers.

Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mataro is one of the very few Penfolds reds left in unblended component form during barrel maturation. This is largely due to picking dates and the fickle nature of grenache. The wine combines the inky coloured, chocolaty smooth texture of shiraz, the heady perfume, juicy texture and abundant fruit of grenache and the spicy top notes of mataro. Bin 138 Shiraz Grenache Mataro is particularly versatile because it can be enjoyed as a youngster or as a medium-term wine.

When grenache enters the field of play as a dominant force it drives the Bin 138 style and promises more. JAMES HALLIDAY, AM

1998 TO 2001 Drink up.

Although there are exceptions, because cool-to-cold cellaring conditions can slow down bottle aging, these vintages are mostly past their best now.

2002 «««« Drink now to soon.

Medium-deep crimson. Fresh redcurrant, musky plum and cola aromas with herb garden notes. Medium bodied with generous redcurrant, plum, tobacco leaf and chinotto flavours, fine loose-knit slinky textures and long mineral acidity. Still has some attractive juicy elements. Delicious.

44 percent grenache, 30 percent shiraz and 26 percent mataro.

A remarkably fresh and concentrated wine. All the components are sewn together leading to a long finish. (JH)

Dried raspberries, wild herbs, a touch of chocolate sweetness and gently gritty but supple tannins. (NR)

2003 « Past.

Overdeveloped with tannins and acidity dominating.

69 percent grenache, 16 percent shiraz and 15 percent mataro.

2004 «««« Drink now to 2026.

Medium-deep crimson. Very attractive chocolate, plum and demi-glace aromas. A sweet-fruited wine with fleshy plum and blackcurrant fruits, fine long/chalky tannins and marked acidity. Some earthy tobacco notes at the finish. Buoyant, crisp and assertive.

49 percent grenache, 40 percent shiraz and 11 percent mataro.

A dark fruit profile with bitter chocolate and juniper berry notes. Light bodied, round and elegant with a sharp appetising finish. (NB)

Tightly structured with bitter cherry, spicy aromas, some smokiness and long focussed youthfully tensioned palate. (NR)

2005 «««« Drink now to 2028.

Medium-deep crimson. Graphite, red plum and cola aromas with floral notes. Inky-dense wine with musky plum, graphite and chinotto flavours, fine loose-knit tannins and attractive mid-palate richness. Walnut notes and integrated mineral acidity. Crunchy and chalky firm at the finish.

71 percent grenache, 15 percent shiraz and 14 percent mataro.

Liquorice, leather, dark berries, slate, dark chocolate, dry herbs and fruitwood. Sinewy muscle rippling beneath supple fruit flesh. (NR)

Fresh berries and spice on the palate with long fine tannins. Quite youthful and lively. (FW)

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