And then in 1962, the 1955 Penfolds Grange won the first of 51 gold medals and 12 trophies beginning one of the greatest wine traditions of our times. Max Schubert s experimental Granges, including the hidden vintages of 1957, 1958 and 1959, are considered a major achievement in the art and science of wine. The story of Grange is also a story of self-belief and success against insurmountable odds.
A dynasty of wines
By the early 1960s Penfolds had created a dynasty of wines that showed a remarkable resemblance and relationship to each other Grange Hermitage, St Henri Claret (as it was called then), Bin 28 Shiraz (the first Bin wine), Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz , Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz formed the backbone of Penfolds red wine portfolio.
Dr Ray Beckwith s ground-breaking preventative winemaking research, years ahead of its time, had been initiated to great effect and major innovations in winemaking including yeast technology, fermentation practices and oak maturation were introduced.
The acquisition of prime terra rossa vineyards in Coonawarra during this period also contributed to more diverse material for Penfolds growing table wine market. The brand s multi-regional House Style, based on traditional and advanced winemaking techniques, also emerged at this time.
Max Schubert s exploratory work with Coonawarra led to an extraordinary output of experimental bottlings, the most famous being 1962 Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Kalimna Shiraz; a blend of Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon and Kalimna shiraz that is now regarded by the world s top wine experts as one of the greatest wines of the 20th century.
In the mid-1970s a period of consolidation began in response to new corporate ownership, urbanisation and market conditions. Having lost most of the original Magill Vineyard to government acquisition, Penfolds acquired new vineyard land, notably Koonunga Hill in Barossa Valley, expanded its plantings at Kalimna and Coonawarra and secured reliable material from growers in McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley and Clare Valley.
Don Ditter, who joined Penfolds in 1942 and worked closely with Max Schubert, was appointed Penfolds second Chief Winemaker in 1975. The launch of 1976 Koonunga Hill Claret marked the beginning of a golden period for Penfolds, including the reintroduction of Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon after a six-year hiatus. Experimental wines also returned with the release of 1980 Bin 80A Coonawarra Cabernet
The sourcing changes but
the House Style doesn t.
Everything to do with winemaking between the sun
above and the soil below is Penfolds.
PETER GAGO, Chief Winemaker
Kalimna Shiraz and 1982 Bin 820 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz the first homage wines to 1962 Bin 60A Coonawarra Cabernet Kalimna Shiraz and 1966 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz.
John Duval, Adelaide University graduate and understudy of Max Schubert and Don Ditter, was appointed Penfolds third Chief Winemaker in 1986; his custodianship marked one of the most dynamic periods of change in the Australian wine industry. It was also a period of unprecedented international accolades, reflecting Penfolds reputation as one of the world s great wine producers in 1995 prestigious US magazine Wine Spectator announced the 1990 vintage of Penfolds Grange as its Wine of the Year.
An intense period of winemaking trials and commercialisation took place in the 1990s, particularly around white wines. Duval turned his attention to white wines that were more refined and elegant than their predecessors. By 1995 his White Grange project had spawned the now-iconic Penfolds Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay when it was finally released in 1998 it attracted more media attention and acclaim than any wine in Australia s history. And on the other end of the colour spectrum, wine trials, including the experimental releases of 1990 Bin 90A Coonawarra Cabernet Barossa Valley Shiraz, 1990 Bin 920 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz and 1996 Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon, led to the launch of Penfolds RWT (Red Winemaking Trial) Shiraz, an ultra-fine Barossa shiraz.
Meanwhile, in 1989 Peter Gago joined the winemaking team to specialise in sparkling wine production, before moving on to reds where he started working as Penfolds Red Wine Oenologist.
Max Schubert, who retired in 1988, died peacefully on March 6, 1994. During his lifetime he was recognised for his winemaking achievements he was awarded an Order of Australia (1984) for his contribution to the Australian
wine industry and in 1990 was the recipient of the inaugural Maurice O Shea Award. In 2001 The Sydney Morning Herald named Max Schubert in its top 100 most influential Australians of the 20th century his name will be inseparably linked with Penfolds Grange for as long as it exists in the world of fine wine.
1844 to evermore
The culture, traditions and long-term stability of Penfolds winemaking team have remained unbroken under four successive Chief Winemakers. In 2002 current Chief Winemaker Peter Gago stepped up from his role as the winery s Oenologist to take over from John Duval, ensuring a succession that would reflect Max Schubert s ambitions without compromise while overseeing significant technical and qualitative advances at Penfolds on a global scale.
Peter Gago has reinvented the role of Chief Winemaker. Under his custodianship, Penfolds has enjoyed unprecedented acclaim. When Penfolds 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra Cabernet Shiraz was released it was hailed by Australian wine writer James Halliday as one of Penfolds greatest wines
Opposite: Penfolds Old Liqueur Brandy, 1914 vintage
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