Meet the Winemaker: Matt Woo
A custodian of rich winemaking traditions
In this interview extract, esteemed member of the winemaking team, Matt Woo, offers insight into his life as a Penfolds winemaker.
His father’s cellar first ignited his passion and appreciation for fine wines, leading him to an incredible career crafting some of Australia’s most prestigious wines. In 2010, Matt joined the team and is now in the unique position of taking responsibility for both the red table wines and the daily craftsmanship of Penfolds fortified collection – a series of beautifully concentrated and complex tawnies that celebrate the origins of our winemaking story.
Raised in country New South Wales, would you say you are a country boy at heart?
Matt Woo: Yes, for sure! Growing up in a rural community imparts upon you. My family were not from the land. However, they were a big part of the community. They owned the local grocery store, a menswear store, a fish and chip shop and a restaurant at various stages.
We understand that your father is an avid wine collector including Penfolds. Are you able to share some of your fondest memories?
Matt Woo: That is true. Two things, in particular, come to mind. The first is special tissue-wrapped bottles in wooden cases tucked away for special keeping. Mostly Grange and Bin 707. The other is the dinner parties my parents hosted; Grandfather Tawny would come out as a special treat after dinner.
Do you believe those moments fuelled your appreciation for fine wine?
Matt Woo: I learnt that special wines were meant to be revered and savoured. As I grew up and started tasting wines, combined with a love of cooking, I began understanding complementary flavours and how to balance them.
Do you remember your palate’s first encounter with wine, and what were your thoughts?
Matt Woo: I’m pretty sure it was taking my first sip of Grandfather Tawny. I remember thinking, wow, it tastes sweet and smells old!
In your 12-year tenure with Penfolds, what is your proudest achievement?
Matt Woo: If I had to name one, it would be working alongside James Godfrey to create our 50 Year Old Rare Tawny. The opportunity to take some very special individual vintage parcels (including 1915, 1940, 1945, 1965, 1971) and blend them into a solera system to ensure they live forever in a blend rather than bottling them individually.
Who are your mentors, and how have they influenced your career as a winemaker?
Matt Woo: Firstly, former Penfolds Senior Winemaker Steve Lienert’s calm, practical and logical approach to both winemaking and running a team was quite valuable. It was important for instilling confidence in my winemaking.
The other is James Godfrey, who is very generous with his knowledge and is a great teacher. I have learned a lot about blending wines from James. He told me the first week we worked together, “age isn’t everything”. Meaning: just because something is old doesn’t make it automatically good, and don’t dismiss something young. This applies to parcels of wine, barrels, vineyards – and maybe even people!
As a Penfolds winemaker, how do you see the coalescence of tradition and innovation?
Matt Woo: Tradition is being respectful of history and the hard work of others to create that history. From a winemaking perspective, it’s being respectful of House Style.
Innovation has several parts for me. It’s to craft existing wines to be more refined while honouring our House Style. Tweak existing methodology to adapt to changing conditions (vintage variables) to express House Style. Naturally, the other part is innovation for something ‘new’ – varieties, regions, winemaking techniques and packaging.
What does a typical day as a Penfolds Winemaker look like?
Matt Woo: No day is ever really the same, nor is there a typical week; our work focus shifts with the seasons. One day could be spent in the tasting room putting a blend together through an exhaustive series of trial and error. The next day we could be hosting an event for consumers or VIP visitors. Another day could be spending time with the marketing team on strategy, and we spend lots of time planning work in the winery.
During the vintage season, we are highly focused on the winemaking process. Vineyard grape assessment, harvest decisions and managing fermentation are the key points for me.
Having lived in various parts of Australia, could you share what it’s like to call the Barossa home?
Matt Woo: South Australia is definitely home to me. We have beaches, rivers, hills, fantastic produce and amazing wine - it’s a vibrant place.
The Barossa and the greater Adelaide region are wonderfully diverse. Food and wine culture are strong, with all regions proudly championing what they do well. Away from wine and food, you will find me riding my Harley Davidson with a group of friends. The Adelaide Hills and Fleurieu Peninsula being favourite haunts.
What’s clear when speaking with Matt Woo is that his passion for winemaking runs deep, and his spirit of ingenuity soars high. His vast knowledge was expressed with candour in a down-to-earth manner with a genuine desire to share his love of wine.
Date interviewed: July 2022
