MEET PETER GAGO

The fourth custodian of Penfolds rich winemaking legacy.

Peter Gago, our Chief Winemaker, stands at the helm of an exceptional team, crafting some of the world’s most acclaimed wines, including our flagship Grange. Peter began his journey at Penfolds in 1989 as a Sparkling Winemaker, and in 2002, he became the fourth custodian of the Chief Winemaker role. His stewardship of Penfolds marries an innovative vision with an unwavering dedication to tradition, ensuring the continued evolution of our winemaking legacy. His efforts continue to forge new connections and collaborations, enriching the ever-evolving narrative of Penfolds.

From eight years of teaching chemistry and mathematics to crafting some of the world's most revered wines – how did you segue into winemaking?

My interest in wine ascended organically. It was less of an epiphany and more of an immersion. I often talk about the ‘grip of the grape’ – the more you engage with wine, the deeper you venture. I didn’t resist, and formal teaching morphed into tangible winemaking.

You joined Penfolds in 1989 as a Sparkling Winemaker. How has the focus for Penfolds evolved from sparkling wines to today’s Champagne?

There has been a seismic leap from our first sparklings… 1912 Penfolds Minchinbury, to our 2012 Champagne releases. After relocating sparkling production from Nuriootpa to Victoria in 1993, sparkling wine production ‘paused’ – until its revival via our collaboration in France with the Champagne House of Thiénot.

Today, our Champagne styles are quite diverse, from Grand Cru single-vineyard Blanc de Blancs (Avize) and Blanc de Noirs (Aÿ) expressions to the recent release of classic NV Cuvée and NV Rosé Champagne styles. An achievement made possible through our much-valued collaboration with the Thiénot family in Champagne.

How has your role as Penfolds Chief Winemaker evolved since 2002, and how has your vision shaped Penfolds style?

Penfolds is steeped in tradition, yet innovation has always been at our heart. In a room adjoining my Office at Magill, we’ve retained a Cambridge pH meter used by Dr Ray Beckwith in the 1940s — long before anyone else in the global wine industry considered such ‘technology’. On day one as Chief Winemaker, I was asked by wine media what I’d do to improve the style of Grange. My reply consisted of two words, “absolutely nothing”; the template is sacred. It’s not broken, it’s not about ego, it’s not about style change – it’s about refinements.

That spirit of innovation is something I would like to think I’ve helped accelerate in recent years. Some might dismiss many new endeavours as marketing cross-over, yet it’s more about winemaking purism. We're not just following trends; we’re staying true to what Penfolds has always done: pioneering new approaches while remaining faithful to quality and tradition.

From multiple 100-point releases of Grange, Special Bins and other innovative wines to nurturing Penfolds multi-country winemaking, you have achieved a lot during your tenure – what have been your highlights?

Mitigating agricultural risk via multi-regional and multi-country fruit sourcing rates highly. It allows us to craft wines of impressive quality, consistently adhering to the Penfolds House Style in spite of oftentimes ‘challenging’ local vintage conditions. Crafting wines trusted globally for their quality and style consistency and enviable cellarability — wines that showcase the depth and diversity of Australian winemaking on a global stage.

And It’s not just about selling wine. We return to cities all over the world, including Zurich, Munich, London, NYC, Beijing, … where people bring their treasured back-vintage Penfolds wines to be recorked. Our Re-corking Clinics are touted by many as the ultimate in after care service. They add value, reinforcing the longevity and secondary market worth of these wines.

Did you envision Penfolds would venture outside Australian borders when you first stepped into the role of Chief Winemaker?

Over half a century ago, Penfolds established a winery in New Zealand. In 1988, Penfolds purchased a half-share in the Geyser Peak Winery in Sonoma. More recently, our Wines of the World were spawned. Not the result of meticulous planning (or focus groups!); they happened almost accidentally.

Following the 2018 harvest at our Californian Classification tastings, Andrew Baldwin and I were dabbling with a Napa Cabernet bench-blend that, at the time, didn’t have a name but would go on to become Bin 149. Although a promising blend was initially assembled, something just ‘wasn’t right’ – wonderful component, yet lacking harmony. Something was missing. We worked through all sample combinations, yet nothing worked. Then, I remembered a lush, plush South Australian wine tasted that morning at an earlier ‘palate-calibration’/grading tasting with our U.S. colleagues.

When we added it to the blend, jaws dropped. Magical. All the parts effortlessly fused together: South Australian Cabernet dovetailed into Napa Valley Cabernet. At the time, we had no idea if this ‘dalliance’ would even be legally feasible. Two hemispheres? It was.

Chemistry? Alchemy? Probably a mix of both — laced with a little trialing and a lot of luck.

We're not just following trends; we’re staying true to what Penfolds has always done.

PETER GAGO

PENFOLDS CHIEF WINEMAKER

How does the Penfolds approach differ when crafting wines in collaboration with another winemaking house?

Our approach varies depending on the partnership. In France, we’ve collaborated with Dourthe, one of the most respected names in Bordeaux, crafting blends spanning the Northern and Southern Hemispheres.

The collaboration with Thiénot began when I recognised an opportunity to make Champagnes. Thiénot had been our French agent for Penfolds, so a strong relationship was already in place. During one of my annual visits, I floated the idea to the Thiénot family. Stanislas, Alain Thiénot’s son, saw mutual potential, and that’s how the seed was sown. The project grew naturally from there.

Different cultures, languages, hemispheres, … Similar aspirations, rigour, energy.

Do you have any other ambitions for the future of Penfolds that you can share?

Whenever asked this question, in this context, I often respond, “We want Penfolds to be the world’s biggest boutique winery”. I think philosophically, and in the true meaning, you step back from that and think… that’s sort of what we are. At the top end, and across several tiers, we’re still handcrafting. Our obscure new wines are very much what many a boutique winery would do if they could. A mindset that truly permits acting small, thinking big. Delightful this is what is encouraged at Penfolds – innovation with traditional handrails. Top-down.

New projects?

Following the eclectic Cellar Reserve range, the time-capsule that is Penfolds Ampoule, g3, g4 and g5, Special Bin and Commemorative releases, Champagnes, V Chardonnay, … ? Watch this space. Rumour has it that a new wine may be released in the New Year – a wine that will globally awaken and amuse even the most skeptical…

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